![]() ![]() ![]() Mueller does indeed live in a medieval stone farmhouse surrounded by olive groves in the Ligurian countryside outside of Genoa - (not a nineteenth-century colonial modern in Frenchtown, New Jersey). The lengths Garner goes to find his stabs are surprising, including a critical assessment of the dust flap description of the author’s home. The leap to the American wisecrack comedian Don Rickles is a far one, but it’s one of many in the book review by Garner, who seems more concerned with stringing together a succession of one-liners himself, than considering the serious subject of food fraud. The man, Flavio Zaramella, is a terminally-ill Milanese businessman and expert olive oil taster who, among others profiled in the book, is working to shed light on the corrupt practices in the olive oil industry. ![]() Garner continues: “The man shakes his head and says, perhaps with a hint of Don Rickles in his voice, ‘Extra virgin? What’s this oil got to do with virginity? This is a whore.’ ” A review of Tom Mueller’s book by New York Times writer Dwight Garner begins by making a caricature of one of the people Mueller profiles: “There’s a funny moment when an olive oil expert holds up a bottle that’s covered with dubious claims: ‘100 percent Italian,’ ‘cold-pressed,’ ‘extra virgin.’ ” ![]()
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